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Cleaning Costume Jewelry


The term “Costume jewelry” refers to the first jewelry specifically designed to provide a finishing touch for a costume and to be manufactured for the general public.

The popularity of Costume Jewelry actually began in the 1920 & 30’s.  They were designed to have a very short life span.  

Glittery jewels are now  being worn day and night.  Rhinestones are dazzling for ritzy occasions, changing dressy clothes into something spectacular.  They are also being worn for casual outings, for taking kids to a ball game, a trip to the grocery store or a night out to the movies.

Many of the necklaces are short as the choker style necklace was popular in the 40’s and 50’s.  If you prefer a longer look, you can add an extender to your necklace.

To take care of your costume jewelry you must never allow moisture on your piece of jewelry.  Water will dull the stones.  To clean  dip a soft toothbrush or Q-tip in Isopropyl  Alcohol, then tap off the excess.   Gently rotate the brush around all the stones.  You can also use a good household glass cleaner.  When finished lay the piece upside down on a clean soft towel for 2/3 hours to dry.    Be sure that you do not get moisture in the setting as it will eat away the foil backing and ruin the brilliance of the rhinestone.  When brushing you’ll be able to check for loose stones.  The brush will snag on any prongs sticking up.-carefully press the prong back in place.   When in doubt on cleaning/restoring, DON’T.  Get professional advise.

Many beautiful pieces are unsigned, however value can increase, by 20 percent or more ,  when a name can be found, such as Eisenberg, CoCo Chanel, Weiss, Hollycraft, Emmons, Hobe and others.   Many of the earlier pieces were unsigned with paper tags, which were removed.

Rhinestones are held in the jewelry in many different ways.  Pave is a method where the design is literally paved with glued -in stones that will dominate the piece and hide the supporting metal work.  Glued stones are subject to deterioration or aging of the glue which can result in lost stones.  A change in temperature or humidity can cause stones to drop out.   Loose stones formally glued in should be re-glued to prevent loss. I normally use a jewel craft glue called 527.  Hand-set stones have  prongs securely holding the stone  on top of each rhinestone.  Handle your costume jewelry as carefully as you would your expensive jewelry.   

Rhinestones are leaded  faceted, cut glass, backed with either gold or silver foil. This backing allows the light to be reflected and the rhinestones to out-rival the shine of precious gems.  Although clear rhinestones were manufactured as imitation diamonds and other precious gemstones, the feminine demand for colors to match their costumes soon branched out to all colors of the  rainbow.

When faceted glass is not foil backed it is called a crystal and the light will just enter the glass.   Many of the older pieces are delicate and very fragile, and can be chipped or broken by rough handling.  Remember this was throw-away junk jewelry often sold in five and dime stores, and never expected to last.  Who could have foreseen  the future and the number of people that would appreciate and value this jewelry. Treat them gently.

If you are starting a collection of  costume jewelry check out the many pictorial books on the subject.  They will describe the different types of material used, the various periods of the jewelry, and the designers and manufactures.  Two that I like are Vintage Jewelry by karen Edeen and Unsigned beauties of Costume jewelry by Marcia “Sparkles” Brown.

One primary reason for buying vintage jewelry is to develop your own personal style.   When you wear these pieces you are wearing one of a kind work of art. Your vintage jewelry can be enjoyed both as an investment and as a piece of  art.  Antique and collectible jewelry is what gives mass-produced clothing some punch.  It will boost your spirits. Jewels can provide an eye catching accent.  Jewelry represents one of your most important personal expressions of individuality.

You can find costume jewelry at antique stores, yard sales, swap meets, and on the internet.

Before purchasing your jewelry check the back of the piece, it will help determine the age, and to check for problems and repairs, and to look for identifying marks. Carry a magnifying loupe with you when buying your costume jewelry.   Remember repair or restorations usually lower value.

 REMEMBER: Buy what you like, it may become your family’s heirloom.  

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